Understanding Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain: From Likes to Legendary
Reflecting on Olivier Rousteing's journey from flashy beginnings to a nuanced narrative, where every detail tells a story.
This past weekend, I visited the Met to see the “Sleeping Beauties” exhibit connected to this year’s gala. I loved getting up close to some of the dresses, but the older dresses didn’t hit me with a wave of affection and nostalgia the way I thought they would. And sadly, the scratch and sniff feature was itself a bit of a head-scratcher. I honestly had a better time on the subway ride home, reconsidering my favorite looks from the gala’s attendees. Almost six weeks after the gala, I’m still thinking about Olivier Rousteing. And I’m not just talking about the breathtaking gown Rousteing designed for Tyla; it was his outfit that really did it for me.
Let’s please consider showing up to the red carpet that’s most highly scrutinized for being “on theme” and wearing your face. It was polarizing, unforgettable, and reshared millions of times on socials. Love it or hate it, this is the exact type of image-making and digital fluency that’s garnered Balmain millions of dollars and followers. I leave you to judge which is more important.
If the choice is dollars, as it should be, Olivier Rousteing may need to rethink his strategy for the future. With our shifting attitudes towards social media, what worked yesterday may not work today, especially for brands heavily reliant on online presence.
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The seemingly simple answer for Rousteing's Balmain lies in the clothes. In 2021, Vogue reported that Balmain sales increased sevenfold under his leadership, even before he introduced his first It bag. So, what made his designs so social media-friendly in the first place? What needs to change? And, most importantly, can he adapt to this evolving landscape?
In the early twenty-teens, Balmain, under Olivier Rousteing’s direction, became known for its bold color combinations, extravagant embellishments, and audacious designs. While other designers shared his gargantuan ambition, Rousteing’s offerings often landed awkwardly. His spring 2016 collection, for instance, featured a palette of butterscotch, pine green, black, and tomato red—colors that former Washington Post fashion critic Robin Givhan remarked as reminiscent of the era's gaudiest hues. The issue wasn't the source material; it was Rousteing's execution, which many saw as a garish, hot mess.
There’s merit to the idea that his Balmain isn’t perceived as the pinnacle of luxury. This is perhaps best evidenced by Kim Kardashian, who used to be the ultimate Balmain muse. As she ascended to a higher sartorial pedigree, she left Balmain behind, suggesting that even she felt the brand was something she had to mature out of to be taken more seriously by the fashion elite.
Talking about that era of Balmain reminds me of a 1994 photo of Tonya Harding and Nancy Kerrigan. You know the one. Harding wears a bright floral peplum bodysuit over black stirrups, looking like she stepped out of a VHS workout class, while Kerrigan looks angelic in a flowy white dress. The contrast is stark: Harding appears less refined, more raw. While Rousteing didn’t take a baton to anyone’s knees on the runway, his bold designs similarly marked him as disruptive of the genteel.
However, since Balmain's ten-year anniversary show, Rousteing's approach has evolved. The Parisian glamour and high-octane aesthetics remain, but there's now a deeper emphasis on storytelling, evident in the intricate details and narratives each piece unveils on the runway. This shift marks more than just a stylistic evolution; it signifies a deliberate change in direction. While the brand still operates on a maximalist wavelength, these new collections move away from purely spectacle-driven presentations.
Take, for example, the SS24 women’s show, where Rousteing took to Paris with a collection inspired by roses. This ode to the joy, beauty, and love associated with the flower featured sharp lapels, sky-high shoulders, rose-shaped buttons on blazers, and voluptuous padded hips. Starting with all black took me somewhat by surprise, but it highlighted the flower embellishments' iconic beauty without relying on prints, patterns, or gimmicks.
Look 8 was an early standout, seamlessly integrating Balmain’s tailored blazer and signature polka dots with a flowing skirt reminiscent of rose petals. Risky business! Trying to get all those elements into one look, but Rousteing did it with a clever balance that didn't feel excessive or cluttered.
As the show progressed into the expected heavy maximalism, intricate embellishments introduced a more complex narrative. The initial delicate, joyful roses evolved into styles featuring thorny elements, prompting intriguing questions about the relationship between beauty and excess—a contemplative layer that I don’t typically associate with Balmain shows.
The AW24 women’s show also is a personal favorite. Drawing inspiration from his hometown of Bordeaux, the collection featured grapes and snail shells as a central motif, symbolizing the region’s famed wines and escargot. These appeared in various forms from metal bags beading on bodies, earrings, buttons, and even breastplates.
Something must have changed in Rousteing’s approach to color, as I can’t recall ever seeing so many soft neutrals on his runway. This stunning subtlety proves that Rousteing no longer needs to be the loudest voice in the room to make a powerful statement.
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In the context of the entire Balmain universe, there’s much more evolving than just color. When I consider what it could be, I realize that Rousteing is still dressing the same vibrant and cheeky woman. However, in 2016, she was paying for FaceTune and choosing Instagram filters, whereas today, she's more discerning about the content she consumes and seeks out spaces that align with her values.
Rousteing himself has discussed this shift in his design evolution. He likened his ten-year show not just to the end of a chapter but to the closing of a book. He sees himself as a witness of his time, and both the SS24 and AW24 collections show he understands we’re in an era where genuine expression and storytelling are what people crave. We're all exhausted by clickbait. He gets it. And now, I need to get one of his blazers.
P.S. I had so much fun looking up images for this piece and thought you might enjoy them as well, so here's a Pinterest board with lots of articles and images I've saved. Have fun in Balmania!